Once a staple in many families' meals during the subsidy period, the "thung" fish (also known as "moi" fish in some places) evokes memories of the difficult times for the people of Nghe An province. Today, this type of fish attracts attention not only for its flavor but also for its unique preparation method: the fish is rolled up, its tail tucked into its mouth, then boiled and smoked.
While nimbly rolling the fish into a circle and tucking the tail into its mouth, Nguyen Trung (living in Cua Lo, Nghe An) said he has seen this cooking method since he was a child.
"In the past, during Tet (Lunar New Year), only well-off families could afford to buy smoked catfish to stew. The fish was used to offer to ancestors, and then the whole family would partake in the feast, eating it with sticky rice cakes or rice," he recounted.
"In my childhood memories, a pot of braised catfish was a precious treat, perhaps because life was difficult back then. Now, families are better off, meals are more varied, so they pay less attention to this dish than before," he said.
Nevertheless, the people of Cua Lo still maintain the craft of processing and the habit of enjoying thuong fish.
According to him, each person has their own way of rolling the fish, but they all place the tail of the fish in their mouth to create a beautiful circle. Then, the fish is steamed and smoked with sugarcane peel, which helps create a fragrant aroma and an attractive color.
"After being boiled until cooked through, the fish is removed and drained, preparing for the smoking process," Trung shared. Instead of using regular charcoal, people in Cua Lo often smoke the fish using sugarcane peel or bagasse, which not only eliminates the fishy smell but also gives the smoked fish a distinctive, mild aroma. The fish meat is golden brown and glistening with oil, dry on the outside but still soft, moist, and flavorful.
According to some fishermen in Nghi Thuy fishing village (Cua Lo), curling the fish into a circle not only helps the fish's body become firm and prevents it from breaking apart during smoking, but also carries spiritual significance. Local people call the curled-up fish "heavenly fish," because the circle symbolizes completeness, fulfillment, and peace.
On Tet (Vietnamese New Year), a plate of plump, round fish placed on the ancestral altar not only creates a harmonious aesthetic but also expresses the people's wish for a prosperous and fulfilling new year.
It is known that the "thung" fish is mainly caught from around September and October of the lunar calendar until the Lunar New Year. The platters of "thung" fish, arranged in a circle, with their golden color, rough shells, and distinctive aroma, look incredibly appealing.
The fish has many bones, making it difficult to eat for those unfamiliar with it. Children, in particular, should be careful when eating this fish. Locals often stew the fish with a sweet and salty sauce, adding chili and pepper, then simmer it repeatedly until the bones are soft. When eating, you can bite into the fish to savor the rich, slightly spicy flavor and distinctive aroma.
Currently, the price of pufferfish is 160,000 VND/kg (approximately 3-4 fish). During Tet (Lunar New Year), the price may increase due to high demand.
Ms. Dinh Thi Van (63 years old, residing in Nghi Loc, Cua Lo) said that her family buys barracuda every year to stew with molasses or make fish cakes.
"The fish has quite a few bones, but the flesh is firm. When braising it, add a layer of ginger and galangal, marinate it with molasses, fish sauce, salt, and onions, then simmer over low heat for many hours until the fish turns a deep yellow color and absorbs the aroma of the spices, then it's ready to eat," she shared.
Many people also prepare it by scraping the meat to make fish cakes, marinating it with lemongrass and frying it until crispy, or grilling it and serving it with salt, pepper, and lemon, which is also very delicious.
